Pepper Season

You might think that the stars of summer are tomatoes, but the real showstoppers that come stepping out in the heat of summer are peppers. I guarantee that right now at market you’ll find more varieties, shapes, sizes, colors, and flavors of peppers.

And oh, the flavors!

People tend to break peppers into two categories—sweet and hot. Sweet peppers, also known as bell peppers, does not produce capsaicin, a lipophilic chemical that causes a strong burning sensation when it comes in contact with mucous membranes and skin. The lack of heat is caused by a recessive gene and was not originally a trait of the peppers that originated in the Americas, the native home to peppers. Sweet peppers were actually bred by plant geneticists in Hungary in the 1920’s.

All other peppers, considered chilis, produce capsaicin to some degree. The spiciness of peppers is measured by the Scoville Scale, a method measuring the spiciness based upon the concentration of capsaicinoids, among which capsaicin is the predominant component. Peppers are tested using high-performance liquid chromatography. Bell peppers score 100 or less and rises to 1.5 million for ghost peppers. Habaneros and Scotch bonnets are in the 100,000 to 300,00 range. My favorite, the poblano weighs in at a paltry 1,000 – 2,500.

While genetics determine the pungency of peppers, weather also plays an important role. One of my favorite things to make ahead and save for winter are cheese-stuffed pepper poppers. Over the years I noticed that even when I acquire my peppers from the same plants at different times of the season the intensity of their heat increases. Peppers need heat to make heat. Dry, hot environments lend well to pepper production. Why do you think the southwest and equatorial islands are synonymous with hot peppers?

While peppers are technically fruit, they often fall into the culinary category of vegetables. Global production is approximately 36 million tons annually with China, Mexico, Indonesia, and Turkey producing the bulk.

There are over 50,000 different types of peppers throughout the world, the rarest one grown in northern Peru. Peppers are estimated to be a species approximately 8,000 years old, originating in Ecuador. Explorers carried seeds back to Spain in 1493 erroneously believing them to be the spice, pepper and from there peppers spread throughout Europe.

The pepper used for seasoning is much different from the fruits referred to as peppers. It is actually a berry known as a peppercorn. Imagine my shock when working in a restaurant in my 20’s in California and the chef told me to go pick some fresh pepper. I looked all over that garden for peppers before admitting defeat ask I’d never seen a pepper tree. For April Fools day we hung bell peppers like Christmas ornaments in the large pepper tree next to the restaurant’s entrance. It was amazing to see how many people thought the pepper on their table was from the same plant that made up the colorful pasta dish and didn’t get the joke.

Peppers are abundant at market right now so it’s the perfect time to stock up. Those tasty little orange peppers get washed, dried, put in an air-tight bag and frozen. Once the season has passed after the first frost when I want to cook with pepper I simply pull out one and cut it up as they can be sliced while frozen.

In addition to savory uses one of my favorite things to make is pepper jelly, especially with jalapeños once they turn red. Yes, your PB&J will be kicking, but this lovely little condiment also makes amazing glazes for meats and fish as well as an instant hors d'oeuvre by dumping a jar over a block of cream cheese or brie if you really want to get fancy—just add crackers.

Now is the time to be like Peter Piper and pick yourself a peck of peppers which, by the way, pickle quite well.