No more Ha8
They’re back, one of the most maligned vegetables of the market—brussels sprouts. For years these miniature cabbages were the butt of jokes and the spear of threats—eat your brussels sprouts or no TV! I grew up thinking they came out of the Green Giant package and were served smothered in béchamel. As the woman of the house I once served them for dinner only to be met with howls of disgust. But when I discovered fresh brussels sprouts still on the stalk with the crown of leaves still attached, my world was rocked.
They went on the menu at restaurants where I was tasked with procuring produce. Sections of fire-roasted stalks with the sprouts attached went on plates. Sautéed crowns were served as sides. Still, it seemed like brussels sprouts continued to get a bad rap.
I knew the tide had shifted toward the once hated tiny cabbage when I found them on the bar menu of a swank DC brew pub. Everyone had a platter of roasted brussels sprouts with maple syrup, dried cherries, and walnuts. That same iteration has been on numerous menus since then swapping out cherries for apple chunks or broiling on bubbly cheese. Suddenly they were everywhere, including out-of-season. Gone was the anticipation for fall when the fresh brassicas took centerstage after the first strong notes of autumn.
Brussels sprouts are a cultivar of the same species of vegetables formerly known as cruciferous that include broccoli, cabbage, collards, kale, and kohlrabi. Native to the Mediterranean, brussels sprouts migrated into norther Europe by the 5th century. The Belgians took a liking to the cultivar and were so adept at breeding and growing them it became reflected in the name.
Brussels sprouts came to America with French settlers, taking hold in commercial production on the central coast of California in the 1940s. One of the reasons for their popularity was their ability to be stored fresh for three to five weeks. Haven’t you ever found a bag of them in the bottom of the vegetable bin in your refrigerator after they’ve been there a while and thought, “they look fine to me” before cooking them for dinner? I know I have.
Speaking of cooking, the possibility for serving brussels sprouts is as plentiful as they are on a Thanksgiving table. They can be served raw. Lovely salads of shaved sprouts dressed up with toasted walnuts, pear, bleu cheese and balsamic vinegar are a snap—no cooking! They can be boiled, steamed, roasted, sautéed, and braised. You can even deep fry them, but first cut them in half or they might explode. I’ve seen them on kebabs and in pho, too. How’s that for cultural appropriation.
This week Halloween is approaching. There’s still a market for you to pick up ingredients for a spooky treat sure to trick anyone—chocolate covered brussels sprouts. I’ve even seen caramel covered brussels sprouts mixed in on a Trick or Treat table. While most recipes call for raw vegetables I like to braise mine soft in apple cider so the unsuspecting get tricked even further into consumption by the chewier sweet center. And while brussels sprouts are the vegetable so many love to hate, with enough sugar and chocolate some might not hate them after all.