Green Stuff

I’ve been in the food business for most of my life. Grocery stores, delis, catering businesses, food writing, butcher shops, farmers markets and of course, farming. My exposure to foods from around the globe is seemingly endless and I’m willing to give everything a try, but there is one food—a staple at the market—that I’m so over with I won’t eat. Arugula.

Blame it on the 80’s food scene in southern California. There was a time when it was arugula everything. It was in salads and on pizzas. There were arugula soups, purees, sauces, and sides. It was paired with pastas and legumes, especially for the vegetarian/vegan set. But when the chef had me churn arugula ice cream, I was done. Never would that green stuff ever pass my lips again. I was arugula’d out.

For years there’s been a friendly competition among vendors as to who had the best arugula as they chortled back and forth each week. Customers rave about all the vendors’ greens, occasionally asking if I’ve had the arugula. Sometimes I lie rather than explain that I don’t eat it anymore.

If you haven’t had it, arugula is a peppery,  bitter green in the Brassica family that is in season right now. Recipes are showing up everywhere, including the Washington Post and New York Times. The Brits and others refer to the plant as rocket or roquette causing a minor mix up with our international patrons occasionally.

Native to the Middle East, North Africa, and southern Europe, arugula is considered an invasive species in the American southwest preferring a dry environment. It’s been cultivated for food since Roman times. The Italians labeled it a stimulant and an aphrodisiac. Maybe that’s why it was forbidden in monasteries during the Middle Ages.

Like other greens, arugula is mostly water with smattering of minerals and vitamins including folate, vitamin K, A, and C, calcium, magnesium, and manganese. I’ve been told that it’s good for arthritis and as a liver cleanser, but I’ll pass on the gin & tonic instead and take creaking bones before imbibing in this particular natural remedy.

Technically this cruciferous green is a vegetable in the same family as broccoli, cauliflower, kale, and Brussels sprouts, but it gets classified as an herb when it comes to the culinary world.

Although our rockstar greenhouse growers keep arugula in their rotation year-round, right now is the official season which is why it’s showing up in all my foodie feeds online.

I totally get why arugula  is a farmers market favorite for many with its versatility and bold flavor. Even though I’m not a fan, I’d be remiss in ignoring this harbinger of summer abundance. Everyone is entitled to have something they don’t eat. If I want a lilt a little kick to my greens, I’ll head over to the mustards.