Fall Flavors
The autumn equinox is upon us and you know what that means? Pears--the fall fruit that packs one last blast of sugars in their crisp flesh. Move over apples, these delicious beauties are the true harbingers of the season.
While most folk consider apples to be the dominant species of the Rosaceae family, in reality pears were cultivated five thousand years ago, a thousand years prior to apples, both having originated in western Asia. Evidence of pear cultivation and consumption have been found in prehistoric dwellings in the Alps and written about in 12th century Spanish books about agriculture. Medieval English gardens sported ornately manicured pear trees and bushes. During the Roman Empire Pliny the Elder chronicled dozens of varieties and recipes for stewed pears with honey. That’s not too different from how they are prepared today.
Nearly identical in structure to apples, pears contain a higher percentage of stone cells (sclereids) which are isodiametric cells (with equal diameters). Under magnification the stone cells appear square with rounded off corners. These stone cells are what gives pears (and quinces) a gritty texture. It is this grittiness that often forces pears to be used in an assortment of ways other than to eat fresh.
One of the most interesting ways pears are cultivated is in glass bottles for eau de vie, a type of clear pear brandy. Fruit buds are placed in an empty bottle that is tied to the branch. The fruit matures inside.
Over the years I’ve cooked pears seven ways to Sunday—pear pies, pear tarts, pear butter, pears poached in port for the sweet side. Pears are equally delicious in savory dishes, pairing with bold flavors such as bleu cheeses, in risotto, and chutney. Pear-stuffed roasted goose is a holiday favorite when I can procure a good bird. Southerners are particularly fond of a concoction referred to as pear salad which involves canned pears, mayonnaise, grated cheddar cheese, and maraschino cherries, but I’ll pass on that one.
Last week Seckel pears showed up at market. I look forward to these delightful little cooking pears for preserving. They are the smallest of all pear varieties and extremely sweet. These tiny pears are considered one of the truly American varieties as they were developed in the early 19th century by German immigrants in Pennsylvania.
In addition to delicious fruit, the wood of pear trees is considered a high-quality domestic hardwood used in furniture, musical instruments, inlay, carving, millwork, and woodturning. And prior to the introduction of tobacco in Europe, pear tree leaves were smoked.
From now until the end of the year you’ll find plenty of pears at the market, but this week you won’t find me. I’m taking off a week, baking a pear tart and heading out of town for a well-deserved vacation. See you in October!