Looking Back, Moving Forward

There’s no missing it this time of year—looking back on the year and the decade; twenty years into the new millennium. I don’t need to reminisce about all that’s happened in the news, but I would like to take a look at farming and farmers markets for first Dishing the Dirt of 2020.Sustainable AgricultureIn 20 years we’ve gone from crazy hippies to cutting-edge agriculture. Recognizing that there was something inherently wrong with beating mother nature into submission with drugs, chemicals, monocultures, genetic manipulation and what amounts to slave labor, farmers and ranchers began tuning their methods in accordance with nature. Grass-based livestock, heirloom and open-pollinated seeds, seasonal production, rotational grazing were methods we turned to along with third-party audits and certifications to guarantee our production practices.But sadly, even that has not been enough to sustain ourselves environmentally and financially. I recall a conversation with a third-generation farmer giving up and getting out of farming around the turn of the century because there was “no money in it.” There they were with a lovely mortgage-free fertile farm in the golden triangle of DC/Baltimore/Philadelphia, but because they had always grown commodity crops for livestock feed the idea of growing and selling food for people was beyond their grasp. The farm is now a housing development.Now the direction has become regenerative agriculture. No longer satisfied to sustain the status quo, farmers are working to repair the damages done by years of farming and development practices that are causing severe environmental issues such as topsoil erosion, aquatic dead zones, pollinator die-offs, invasive species, zootonic diseases (passable to humans), and that’s not including all the natural disasters caused by a rapidly shifting climate. Now more than ever, farmers are needed to heal the planet using agricultural practices that not only produce a saleable crop using environmentally responsible methods, but going the extra mile to build rich, healthy soils, protect waterways and promote wildlife.But what about organic? In no way do I begrudge my fellow market vendors who choose the USDA Certified Organic route, however, in the coming years there is going to be a lot of changes to the food system in terms of what is considered certified and what isn’t. The fact remains that one can purchase a dozen eggs from a high-end grocery store that are Certified Organic and cage-free yet those eggs came from a large contract operation where there were 30,000 chickens crammed in a long barn where they never see the light of day, their manure pollutes the neighborhood and the workers barely make a living wage.In the coming years, I see consumers becoming more aware as to how their food was produced as opposed to where which leads me to the next topic…Local Foods Where farmers once had to beg municipalities for use of public spaces they are now courted by real estate developers and redevelopment authorities who build out spaces in communities specifically for markets. Campaigns such as Buy Fresh Buy Local and No Farms No Food make for great hats, shirts and bumper stickers, but the reality is procuring 100% of our diet from our foodshed is practically impossible. I wouldn’t last long on that diet without my coffee, chocolate or citrus.In addition to creating a robust local production of food, we also need to create the businesses that can utilize, process and distribute local foods. We need to create and support businesses that have a direct impact on regional economies. This means getting local foods back into school cafeterias, hospitals, and hospitality.The first ten years of the 2000’s was spent getting our balance as farmers markets exploded throughout the United States. According to USDA statistics, in 2000 there were approximately 2,600 markets. That number has grown to over 8,600 today.Farmers have more choices than ever as to where to sell their products. No longer are we limited to only farmers markets. Food hubs, cooperatives, community supported agriculture (CSA), buyers’ clubs have gained traction in the shift to local foods by the general public. Chefs and restaurants have built their reputations and businesses on their ability to source locally. Even large-scale grocery chains are turning to local producers to cash in on the trend.The numerous choices had markets struggling to brand themselves in order to stand out. At first, the trend was producer only which turned out to be a load of manure. I’ve been to too many of those where the farmers are shackled to their own properties while the value-added producers have a free pass using ingredients with sketchy origins. Imposing geographic limits as to who can sell and who can’t is also a lose-lose for the farmers and customers.For many of us who have been in this business any length of time we know the reality that organic and local have gone mainstream. Walmart sells certified organic foods. Whole Foods offers heirloom produce. Boutique butchers are popping up all over the place sourcing regional meats and cutting from whole carcasses. Consumers no longer have to shop at farmers markets to procure locally grown goods and that means as vendors we need to be agile and dynamic in our marketing as well as production.One of the largest trends to come out of this has been…Value-added Products & CollaborationNowhere was this explained better than in the Bethesda Magazine’s article A Day at the Market. The author and photographer (who are both market regulars) captured the trend that makes a successful market tick as they followed both vendors and shoppers throughout the market for a day.Sure, customers can buy fresh tomatoes, onions, cilantro and peppers to make their own salsas, but the truth is convenience is king. Instead of composting all that less-than-perfect produce, vendors are taking the extra steps to produce their own products and capturing more profit.Take a walk around any market today and you’ll see a much larger variety of prepared goods than ten years ago. Entire industries are being built on the next generation of innovation. Fruit growers are making ciders and vinegars, vegetable growers have sauces and pickles, meat producers make sausages, burgers and charcuterie, and dairy farmers offer everything from farmstead cheeses to ice cream. Instead of being sold as commodity crops to large corporations making processed foods, local grain growers are helping to revive local breweries and distilleries. And every single one of those non-farm vendors are a local small business which are also important to a vibrant farmers market.The biggest trend I’ve seen at the markets, though, has been collaboration between vendors to offer unique items that can only be procured at that particular market; an exclusivity that draws customers who know they will not find those goods anywhere else. Industrial agriculture has long had the practice of pitting farmer against farmer, but the successful farmers in coming years won’t be the ones who hope for their neighbors to go out of business but the ones willing to reach out and work together to create a food supply that is a win-win for both producers and customers alike.There you have it, the trends from the last twenty years at the farmers market. What’s next? Here are my predictions for the coming year at Central Farm Markets.

• Customers are going to see more collaboration between market vendors. Prepared food vendors know that sourcing ingredients from market producers gives them the edge.
• Both customers and vendors are turning to environmentally friendly practices. Look for more compostable packaging and more bikes at the market. Maybe we’ll get lucky and see an electric box truck or delivery van in the near future.
• Look for new varieties of produce, stuff you wouldn’t find even at upscale grocery stores. The same goes for value-added products.

Here’s to wishing all of my fellow vendors and customers a happy, healthy and prosperous 2020.