Sweet & Sour
There are many fruits that are erroneously labeled as vegetables, such as tomatoes, but did you know that there are also vegetables that get treated like fruits? The one you’re most likely to find at Central Farm Markets this time of year is rhubarb.As with the fruits-called-vegetables, rhubarb was officially deemed a fruit in 1947 by the U.S. Customs Court to reduce import taxes simply because it was most likely to be prepared and served as a fruit. Take a taste of this fruity imposter and you’ll quickly learn why as it begs for added sugar to temper the mouth-puckering tartness.I grew up with rhubarb pie, rhubarb jam and what my family affectionately termed, “rhubarb slime” which was ladled warm over home-churned strawberry ice cream. But my eyes were opened to its versatility when a chef I was working for during my college years braised pork loins in shallots, rhubarb, apple cider vinegar and honey. It’s a dish I’ve since made annually with the first fresh stalks of the season.Just what is it? The stalk, which can be green or pink or red, is actually the petiole of the leaf. The unopened flowers, considered a delicacy is Asia, are also edible. However, the leaves and roots contain toxic amounts of oxalic acid, enough so that a few ounces could kill you. Alternatively, the same properties that can be poisonous in large quantities have also made rhubarb one of the most widely used medicinal plants in Asia for thousands of years. Only when sugar production became widespread in the 17th century did rhubarb begin showing up in historical documents as a food.Fresh rhubarb arrives at the market about the same time as strawberries. Due to its tartness, rhubarb is typically paired with sweeter fruits such as berries and apples. However, in the Washington Post’s award-winning food column, Voraciously, eaters are encouraged to cut back on the sugar with recipes that included pickles, sauces and shaving the stalks into tangy ribbons.Another place where rhubarb is making a splash is in the beverage scene. Switchels, shrubs, kombuchas, and cocktails made with locally sourced ingredients have bellied up to the bar elbowing their way past the cloyingly sweet drinks. I gave the idea a spin with a refreshing recipe for a Pink Gin using McClintock’s Forager Gin. Simply cube up a few stalks of red or pink rhubarb, place in a jar with a couple tablespoons of sugar, shake well and let sit overnight for all the juices to settle. Strain and add the juice directly to gin. {Hint: toss in a few strawberries, too}And if you’re not ready to indulge in a recipe that will utilize an entire bunch of rhubarb, fear not. Spiral Path Farm reminds us that rhubarb is easy to preserve, “Just cut into 1-inch segments and throw in the freezer in a sealed bag!”